29 May 2015


My surfing didn't suck today. In fact, I was pretty respectabiggle.
Teresa was out again with her surf buddy, newly identified as Tim, and an older woman I haven't yet put a name to. Sadly, five other dudes joined us – I guess a lot of people have Friday off. The waves were sectiony but I rode my last as close as possible to the shore, closer than ever before, and had only a few steps to get up onto the glistening wet cobblestones.

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