26 May 2015

Getting My Reef On

Too long away from my favorite reef, I had to surf there this morning. I'm still fighting jet lag - ready to sleep at 7pm and awake in the wee hours of the night - so I didn't make it out as close to dawn as I wanted, but there was still enough tide for a little while.
Only three others were out at Hennemans, all smiling and friendly to put a nice vibe on the water. There was even another girl I'd seen before, named Teresa, and at least two seals, including a solitary baby. I've been testing whether it's time to swap my 4/3 wetsuit for a 3/2, and the answer from my last two shivering sessions is not yet.
I rode a bunch of fun and delightfully long shoulder-high waves, mostly caught late because they were fat. Then I overstayed my welcome – the tide dropped too low – and it took forever until I was able to link three rides together to come in to the cobblestone beach. Stoked!

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