29 August 2012

Three Feet Shorter (Linda Mar)

Yesterday I rode my 8'3" hybrid longboard, Magic. Just for grins, today I lopped off about three feet and rode my 5'4" fish, Nemo. It's 3" thick, 21" wide at the center and 16" at the nose and tail. I've got it in a tri-fin setup, for now.

It took me until the third wave to get my feet on the board, and until the fifth to position them correctly to get a ride without stalling. Clearly I need to wax farther forward on the board, since my front foot wants to be over the logo which is only half covered. It took effort to overcome a mental block about landing it there, and I did better when I didn't look at the board while popping up.
Eventually I caught a green wave and made the drop into a brief ride. I count that as a success - I went from total kook to semi-kook in just one hour!
So here's my surfcation goal (besides finding a new job): To get competent on the fish. I've had it for years but wasn't capable of riding it, until now. If new opportunities take me to SoCal, I'll want Nemo as an active part of my quiver.

Surfline: Knee to waist high [with plus sets], poor to fair conditions. Nothing great, but there are semi-consistent and rideable lines working through with smooth surface conditions and some occasional plus sets. Just looks a little on the weak/gutless side overall. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 4.6 ft at 6.2 s WNW 68 / WIND WAVE: 2.3 ft at 4.2 s NW / WVHT: 4.9 ft / APD: 5.4 s / MWD: 301° (Met) WSPD: 10 kn / GST: 14 kn / WVHT: 4.9 ft / DPD: 6.0 s / ATMP: 54° F / WTMP: 55° F / 09:50a PDT. Tide: 4.5' rising to 5' high.

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