28 August 2012

Countless (Linda Mar)

With the tide almost 5' high at 10am and windiness forecast as the day progressed, I'd hoped to meet Luke, J-Bird and Beanstalk at 7 for the best conditions. But poor stress-addled sleep kept me up during the night, then made me sleep in until almost the appointed time. So instead I joined Karen for the second shift in the late morning. Thankfully, the forecast was wrong, and winds were still calm. Indeed, it was a gorgeous sunny summer day at the beach.
The waves, however, were not terribly gorgeous, yet offered tiny shoulders before they flopped onto the sand. On J-Bird's advice, I'd brought my 8'3" Magic, and got countless little rides, although I think I would've done OK on my 7'0" Emm with perhaps less occasional pearling.

On one sectiony wave, I took off left, and Karen took off right. Trouble was, this put us on a collision course. Un/luckily, my hand prevented our boards from colliding. There are times when I'm glad the water is cold and provides natural immediate icing.
Partway through the session, a nearby dude asked if I had the time, to which I replied, "I'm unemployed. I don't know what time it is." No need to worry about the temporal parameters - just surfin'!

Surfline: Ankle to knee high occ. 3 ft, poor to fair conditions. Clean, soft, broken up little lines working through this morning as the tide fills in. Minor combo of small NW swell-mix and trace Southern Hemi swell prevails this morning. Most breaks are topping out in the waist high zone, with a few rare better sets to about chest high for top exposure as the tide fills in this morning. Looking slow, but there are a few rideable ends. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 2.6 ft at 9.1 s WNW 67 / WIND WAVE: 3.0 ft at 5.3 s NW / WVHT: 3.9 ft / APD: 5.3 s / MWD: 298° (Met) WSPD: 14 kn / GST: 16 kn / WVHT: 3.9 ft / DPD: 9.0 s / ATMP: 56° F / WTMP: 55° F. Tide: Almost 5' falling below 4'.

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