26 June 2012

Namaste (Dunes)

Messy Montara
Marcia and I pulled into the Montara parking lot at the same time from opposite directions. Alas, the wind moved upon the face of the sea, and it was choppy. On my way north, I'd passed the near-flat but glassy Jetty, so suggested we try farther south in Half Moon Bay.
Marcia picks a peak
Dunes was also glassy but with waist-high+ waves to play on. I'd brought my 8'3" Magic as the swell is small, and since I'm handicapped by a wrist brace for another 2½ weeks. (Yesterday at the pool, I somewhat-scientifically determined that it decreases my paddling efficiency by 15-20% based on the number of additional strokes it takes to swim a lap.) The extra board length helped me get into more waves, but had drawbacks. I tripped over the big nose a couple times before going solid on a right for a longish ride to the beach. Woot! It's been ages since I've ridden my longboard, and I worked to find the sweet spot between pearling and stalling, and once on the wave, had to shuffle up to kept the board planing. It's just so... long! Several fun rides later, I was smiling and stoked again.
Marcia rode a handful of waves too before she had to leave for work. Alone then in the satin sea, I inhaled peacefulness and reflected on why I surf. It's for mornings like this. Quiet solitude with a friend. Being a part of the vast waterworld. Getting out of my head and immersing in nature. Re-centering. Peace and joy.
The tide was dropping, making for more closeouts. It took a while to find my last wave to the beach, a bouncy left that turned into a right before splashing out in the shallows. Stoked!

Surfline: The surf is looking pretty sloppy for most breaks this morning thanks to steady WNW winds. Continued NW windswell energy, leftover Southern Hemi swell, and some minor long period WNW swell are keeping better exposures in the 2-3'+ zone. Top spots see a few chest/shoulder high sets. Though nowhere is looking particularly phenomenal there are some rideable waves to be had. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 3.9 ft at 8.3 s WNW 48 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 4.3 s W / WVHT: 4.3 ft / APD: 6.9 s / MWD: 298° (Met) WSPD: 10 kn / GST: 10 kn / WVHT: 4.3 ft / DPD: 8.0 s / WDIR: 300° / ATMP: 55° F / WTMP: 55° F. Tide: less than 3' falling to less than 2'.

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