26 February 2012

Where Everybody Knows Your Name (HMB Jetty)

Making your way in the world today takes everything you've got.
Taking a break from all your worries sure would help a lot.
Wouldn't you like to get away?
Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name,
and they're always glad you came. 
You wanna be where you can see, our troubles are all the same.
You wanna be where everybody knows your name.
- Cheers Theme by Gary Portnoy & Judy Hart Angelo

Not everybody knew my name at the Jetty this morning, but with many of the local surfers running there for shelter from the north wind, I saw quite a few familiar faces. I'd planned to meet J-Bird and Jacob, and when Scott and I arrived at the parking lot, Jacob was downing an unappetizing green drink (pulverized kale?) in the parking lot before following J-Bird to the lineup. On the beach after suiting up, I caught him on video, riding a short section and waving to let me know where in the crowd to find them.
Their friend Denise was also out, feeling rusty on a board that needed more wax. Nikki'd said she'd join us, and we were glad to see her paddle up on her red 7'0". A bit later, as I moved Jetty-ward to correct for south drift, a bearded dude called my name. It was Austin, who I hadn't seen in a year in half, since our sweet session at Tres Rocas. Not long after, Manabu joined us on his yellow board.
Nikki, pondering the possibilities 
I was glad of the friendly faces, as the waves weren't so friendly. Probably still the best on offer in the local area, it being spring. the waves were sloppy and choppy, closing out and mushing out, with teasing hints of brief shoulders if you could luck into them. I got a short left after a little while, then had a long wait before catching a near head-high closeout that tossed me at the bottom when I couldn't keep the nose up. I got a good natural neti on that wipeout, plus a fleeting ice cream headache from the cold water.
J-Bird, Jacob and Manabu
I'd brought Feo with a thought to practice duck-diving after I got some rides on Rocket, but the rides were too elusive and the waves were breaking too shallow, so Feo stayed dry. Instead I tried to sink and balance Rocket with my hands under my shoulders on the rails and my left foot pushing down the center of the tail. It was tricky in the midst of chop, but I did it briefly a couple times.

Starting to shiver, and with the others already on the beach, Manabu said "How about this one?" and I turned to catch a good right in, turning on the face, then riding the whitewater close to shore. Taking a break from all my worries sure did help a lot!

Surfline: Steep NW (300-330) swell fills in through the day today as small-scale SW energy shows at select exposures. Decent size on tap as exposed areas run head high+ to several feet overhead. Top areas hit double overhead on the best sets. Tide hits a 1.2' low around 7am. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 12.5 ft at 12.9 s NW 20 / WIND WAVE: 10.8 ft at 8.3 s NW / WVHT: 16.4 ft / APD: 8.3 s / MWD: 315° (Met) WSPD: 25 kn / GST: 31 kn / WVHT: 14.8 ft / DPD: 13.0 s / WDIR: 330° / ATMP: 48° F / WTMP: 50° F. Tide: 2' rising to 3'.

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