20 February 2012

Icing on the Cake (HMB Jetty)

Today is a holiday in honor of dead presidents, but I had to surf early because our cat had an inconvenient vet appointment in the late morning. I didn't expect anyone to join me, and the Jetty didn't look all that exciting when I got there at a bit past dawn, but I saw a few waves that looked surfable. The one guy checking it when I arrived departed for elsewhere, and I paddled out alone mid-beach.
There were some fun waves to be had, up to chest-high, sluggish on the high tide but with less backwash than on Friday. My thought for the drop was "Look where you want to go. Not at your feet; they know where they need to be." Indeed, that seem to help my turns, and I rode some nice lefts and a couple rights.
Since I woke up at the start of the long weekend with a stuffy nose, I've been fighting a cold. There's something grossly unfair about illness that strikes during time off, and sadly it sapped my energy such that I was done in about an hour. As I rode my last wave in near the beach, I saw Luke carrying his blue-striped Harbour longboard down to the sand. Of course I had to paddle back out with him for one more wave; it was icing on the cake to have a buddy join my fun solo session. On my real last wave, he went right and I went left, dropping into the shallows at almost the same time. Stoked!

Spring wildflowers
Surfline: WNW-NW wind and groundswell mix backs down through the day. Most breaks start off a bit sluggish as the tide approaches a 6'+ mid morning high tide. Surface conditions are looking pretty clean, though shape is still on the jumbled side. Size for exposures is in the shoulder-head high+ range, with standout spots still puling in some sets running 2-3'+ overhead. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.2 ft at 12.9 s NW 18 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.6 s SSW / WVHT: 6.6 ft / APD: 8.3 s / MWD: 307 (Met) WSPD: 8 kn / GST: 10 kn / WVHT: 6.6 ft / DPD: 13.0 s / WDIR: 140° / ATMP: 49° F / WTMP: 51° F. Tide: 5.5' rising to almost 6'.

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