08 January 2012

A Cold Splash Before the Heat (Dunes)

Just after noon, I joined J-Bird, Jacob, Luke and Caro in the water at Dunes for one more cold-water surf before we head south to warmer waters. It was a fine summer day in winter, sunny and in the 60s, with a growing offshore wind.
Jacob and Luke sharing a wave
Luke, still riding
The channel gave me a dry-hair paddle out. I had three goals today: don't get hurt, don't get my board dinged, and ride a few waves, with the first two being most important ahead of our imminent surf trip. Since head-high closeouts were rolling through at times, my wave selection was cautious. The longboarders were getting some nice rides but I found it hard to get into the waves, or perhaps I was being too timid. I moved inside and caught a couple of fun left reforms, playing with turns on responsive Rocket, riding in close to the beach. Since my buddies had been quite early and I joined them a little late, I ended up catching a meh ride in after only an hour to join them on the beach. I'm still hungry, but I'll be eating my fill of tropical waves soon enough.
Luke, Caro and J-Bird show off their moves
Caro and J-Bird high-kicking
Caro, Luke, me, Jacob and J-bird
Girls playing in the waves
J-Bird and Caro getting splashed
I was glad I hadn't stayed out longer, since when I got home there was barely enough sun left to melt the wax off of my 6'2" before it dropped below the hill. Now I'll pack up Rocket for the journey to the Pacific coast of Nicaragua on Friday. Scott and I will spend a week at Holly Beck's surf camp, Suave Dulce, and then explore on our own for a few days. I'll be unplugged and offline until we're back home.

If Surfline can be believed, we're in for some fun tropical surf. I can't wait!

Surfline: Old WNW (260-300) energy fades this morning, blending with local NW windswell and some small, building long-period NW swell. Expect less size as the decent breaks see shoulder-head high waves. Standouts go slightly bigger on those top sets. Offshore wind. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.2 ft at 12.1 s WNW 02 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.1 s NW / WVHT: 6.2 ft / APD: 7.9 s / MWD: 292° (Met) WSPD: 4 kts / GST: 8 kts / WVHT: 6.2 ft / DPD: 12.0 s / WDIR: 30° / ATMP: 55.9° F / WTMP: 53.4° F. Tide: 2' falling to 1.5'.

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