05 July 2011

Queen of the Whitewater (Linda Mar)

That's what I had in mind to call myself for much of today's session: Queen of the Whitewater. For a while it seemed I couldn't catch a greenwater wave for the life of me. I'd paddle for ones that looked promising, but the walls would mush into uncatchable mounds, sometimes even for the longboarders near me in the water. Then a head-high outside closeout set would sweep through, so what the heck, I'd catch the fast whitewater and rise to my feet from the turbulent froth. Eventually I got a right with a short shoulder, and my last wave was the sweetest, holding up for a little while and reforming before breaking into white that took me to the shallows.
No complaints here; a random day off from work to celebrate the day after Independence Day, sunny skies, a mellow crowd and some fun waves.

Surfline: 2-3' occasionally 4'. Mostly clean, crumbly, sectiony lines working through. NW windswell and trace Southern hemi swell mix continues this afternoon with better exposures in waist-chest-shoulder high range, with some larger sets for top windswell spots. Winds are light onshore for some surface bump/texture, though most breaks still offer a few rideable corners. (Wave) SWELL: 7.5 ft at 10.0 s NW 53 / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 4.0 s WNW / WVHT: 7.5 ft / APD: 7.5 s / MWD: 306° (Met) WSPD: 8 kts / GST: 12 kts / WVHT: 7.5 ft / DPD: 10.0 s / WDIR: 170° / ATMP: 52.3° F / WTMP: 53.1° F. Tide:  2.5' rising to 3.5'.

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