22 November 2010

Bonding (HMB Jetty)

Full moon at dawn
On our third session this morning, I really clicked with Emm, my new 7'0" Ward Coffey surfboard. The waves at the Jetty were fairly clean and chest- to shoulder-high (waist- to chest-high relative to Luke), but a bit jumbled and funky after the stormy weekend. We shared the break with only a shy harbor seal who peered at us from a safe distance. I rode a bunch of fun lefts as close as I dared to the rip-rap wall bordering the road, and a couple of rights as well. Once Luke and I split a peak; it's always nice sharing a wave with a buddy.

The sunrise and moonset were lovely in the cold dawn air. Just as recent studies have shown, wave-riding greatly improved my mood. Stoked!
Surfline: NW (290-330) swell mix eases, with some reinforcing NW swell moving in later in the day, as small SSW (185-210) energy continues to mix in. Most exposed breaks are good for at least waist-chest-head high surf, with top NW spots pulling in some head high to 2-3' overhead sets at times. Conditions are an issue in most areas with plenty of residual lump and bump to the surface, as well as steady onshore flow. The tide hits a 6'+ high right around 10am. (Wave) SWELL: 7.9 ft at 11.4 s WNW / WIND WAVE: 1.6 ft at 4.0 s W / WVHT: 7.9 ft / APD: 7.4 s / MWD: 301°

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