17 September 2010

South Swell Stoke (HMB Jetty)

"Surf session this morning brought to you by the color grey and the letter S for South Swell." -Luke
Too long without any good waves, I really needed to find some on Magic this morning. At the Jetty, the combo swell with a nice portion of south did not disappoint. Luke and I arrived at first light and were the second and third surfers in the water, although the crowd built to a dozen with the brightening day. Manabu was suiting up when we left the beach, and he shot this video just before my last ride.

In the short hour I had to surf between dawn and work, I got a handful of nice lefts off of the A-framing chest- to head-high waves, with some fun and challenging backwash moguls. South swell stoke!

Surfline: 2-3 ft (not!). Long period SSW (190-205) swell continues to build in this morning, mixing with a decent shot of WNW windswell. Most breaks see surf running in the waist-chest-shoulder high+ zone, as top exposures are getting up into the head high zone on some of the sets. Winds are light onshore out of the WNW, putting some decent bump/texture to the surface in most areas. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 4.3 ft at 17.4 s WSW / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.8 s NW / WVHT: 4.6 ft / APD: 6.9 s / MWD: 245°

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