This morning was nearly a repeat of yesterday. Same surf checks, same result. But conditions were a bit better - or maybe it just seemed that way in the warm bright sunshine. My shortboarding skills were better too, with several rides measurable in full seconds. I don't think they would've been much longer on Magic, with the waves mostly closing out and breaking close to shore. And this time, I did find a couple of short shoulders. Fun!
I was only alone for about 40 minutes, and then another shortboarder paddled out. He chose another peak, but two others soon came out and sat on either side of me. Somehow it felt like a crowd. By the time I left there were more than half a dozen in the water, and no doubt the break will be packed later with fair-weather holiday waveriders.
It looks like we may be heading into an even worse wave drought, so I'm glad I got in 3 days of surfing this long weekend. And especially glad I got in enough water-time to bring my shortboarding up to halfway decent. Bring on the Fall!
Surfline: A bumpy, lumpy mix of mostly NW windswell and some trace S-SSE swell prevails this morning. Better exposures are good for waist-chest-shoulder high surf, as standout spots pull in some occasional head high+ sets. Winds are light/variable out of the NNW putting just some slight texture to the surface in most areas. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.9 ft at 10.0 s NW / WIND WAVE: 4.6 ft at 6.7 s NW / WVHT: 8.2 ft / APD: 7.0 s / MWD: 320°; (Met) WSPD: 14 kts / GST: 17 kts / WDIR: 330.0° / ATMP: 54.3° F / WTMP: 55.9° F.
Yes, always look so much better in the sunshine doesn't it?
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