20 August 2010

Summer? What Summer? (HMB Jetty)

When I reached the beach it was barely dawn, 53 degrees and drizzling under gray skies. Summer's nearly over, and it seems like we're still waiting for it. This has been one of the coolest summers ever, or so it seems, and the south groundswells have been as scarce as the warm sunshine. But there was a little south swell in the water, underneath a NW windswell, giving some hope for the Jetty after a pretty flat week. It didn't look like much from the road, but neither Darren nor I had time before work to drive around on a wave quest, so we paddled out anyway. The water too was colder than it should be in August.

Darren got the wave of the day as soon as he got in position - it was more than waist-high! I pulled off my requisite three decent rides, plus a few rather fun wipeouts from getting too close to the lip of a closeout wave on (attempted) takeoff. Luke and John turned up after a bit, and then it was just the four of us sharing the break. Manabu stopped by to video his surf report just as I rode my last left in. The bottoms of my feet were icy clods. I shivered as I changed, and cranked up the seat heater in the MINI as soon as I started driving - aahhh.
The waves may have been small and inconsistent, but there's no better way to start the day than a surf with just my buddies.

And now for a shark joke, courtesy of Luke:
A boat capsizes in the ocean and sinks. The survivors are floating around on the surface when two great white sharks spot them, a daddy great white and his son. The daddy says to his son, "Let's circle around them a few times with just one fin out of the water," and they do. Then the daddy great white says to his son "Good job! Now let's do it again, this time with all our fins showing," and they do. Then the daddy great white shark says "Good job son! Now let's go feast," and they do. After they have gorged themselves, the son asks, "Daddy, how come we circled them so many times instead of just going at them right away?" The daddy great white answers, "Because they taste better without the shit in them."
Surfline: Mix of holding SW groundswell, some minor NW windswell, and slow building long-period forerunners of a new SSW groundswell. Good SW exposed breaks offered 2-3' occasional 4' surf. Beachbreaks exposed to the SW/NW combo are peaky. Buoy 46012: NW 4.3 ft @ 7.7 sec.


  1. Good joke!

    I reckon you might just get a late summer. We have been experiencing the same (opposite) because we have had beautiful sunny days, some a bit chilly but gorgeous. I reckon the seasons are changing a fair bit in the last few years, so you may get summer yet!

  2. Maybe you could send some of that sunshine our way! I'm still hopeful for September.

  3. It was gorgeous yesterday, aqua water and waist to shoulder-high waves with a deep channel. Whales thrashing in the bay and the family of dolphins with several babies surfing with the surfers. Doesn't get much more perfect than that BUT today it's going to be 9 degrees. Brrrrr....... and the swell is up to 4 metres which will probably mean only one place to surf and too big around the bay. It sure is strange weather.

  4. Nice to surf with all that sea life! Darren saw a couple dolphins before we suited up but they took off down the coast before we got in the water.