14 August 2010

"So Fun!" (Montara)

"...Get out there if you have a board!" That's what a passing wet surfer told me in response to my query as I trotted to the edge of the bluff for a surf check. And indeed it was fun. Who would have thought I'd satisfy a little of my craving for bigger waves on a day Surfline forecast as 2-3'? The surf was actually chest- to head-high and sometimes a bit overhead, with steep fast drops.
With solid power in the water from a shorter-period windswell, I had some trouble getting my 8'3" to the lineup. But the third time was a charm, when I found an entry point on the very north end with a small rip current and timed it to a lull. The crowds were clumped farther down the beach, with only a few shortboarders on the far end. It was a bit frustrating at first as it took me a bit to get dialed in to the steep drops. Then I rode some fun lefts and rights, but the wave of the day was a fast head-high right with facetime that seemed to go on forever, speeding me along the bluffs all the way to the beach. Stoked!

Surfline: A small pulse of SSW (180-200) swell is on tap this morning as our small NW swell-mix continues to work in. Most breaks are good for knee-waist high+ surf, as top exposures pull in some chest/shoulder high sets. Conditions are lightly bumpy/textured for most areas thanks to light/variable SW winds early. Buoy 46012 NNW 3.9 ft @ 9.1 sec.

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