08 October 2009

Kelly Ave

The waves have been small this week but fairly clean. Big Blue's seen a lot of action recently, and while I'm eager to get back to shortboards, conditions today cleared called something long and floaty. My plan was to check Kelly first and drive on if it wasn't happening. Fortunately there were some waist-chest+ shoulders making an appearance from time to time, so I suited up and waded through a crowd of kids (some sort of matching t-shirt club gathering) to get to the water. The sun was shining, winds were light from the southwest, and best of all, there was no one out.

The peaks were shifty and the northward drift kept pushing me out of the zone, so I spent a good deal of time chasing the waves around. But I caught two fine lefts, nice rides, though not as long at the rights at the Hook last weekend. I wanted just one more good ride but it was elusive, so I got out when I became too tired and sloppy.

As I walked back up the beach, I was greeted by my adoring and adorable fans, four girls on the underside of 10, all grinning and telling me how much they liked my surfing. They thought I was a-MAZ-ing. Ha!

Heavy rain and winds are forecast starting Monday, remnants of a storm that hit Japan a few days ago. Typhoon Melor is about to plant a big wet sloppy kiss on us.

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