wave journal of a surfer girl: Kelly Ave, 28 February 2009

28 February 2009

Kelly Ave, 28 February 2009

It was a right time, right place, kind of day. I got lucky once.

2 comments:

Ryan GMarch 05, 2009
looks nice! 2/28 was pretty epic everywhere from crowded lindy to OB. Great day to be in the wawa.
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Dr Mad FishMarch 06, 2009
I commented on a blog of yours from last year and have tracked your home page down. I am an Aussie, probably much older than you but I surf (probably not that well)on the south coast of West Oz.
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Dawn at the beach. Air almost 50 degrees, water slightly warmer. Full moon hanging over the ocean, sun rising from the hills. Swell gently lifting my surfboard a little closer to the sky as it passes by on its way to touch the beach. Icy water trickling down the front of my wetsuit. Feet going numb from the cold despite neoprene booties and thermal socks. Two dolphins in the lineup chase silver fish, who leap into the air in a swirling mass, sparkling in the first rays of the sun. Then "pwwwfff!" as another dolphin surfaces and exhales not a dozen feet from me, before gracefully sliding back under the water. What a great way to start the day!