11 August 2008

Linda Mar, 11 August 2008

Ah, Linda Mar, you disappoint so often, I have come to almost expect it. And today you did not disappoint that expectation. Why do I keep coming back? Is it the scenery? The shower that stays on long enough to rinse? Or that once there were dolphins in the lineup? I just don't know.

I arrived this time actually at dawn (easier when it's only a half hour drive), and there was only one guy in the water, sweet. But conditions were not so sweet, around 3' at the south end to nearly head-high toward the north, a short-period mixture of bowly mushburgers and crashing closeouts with the occasional promising shoulder. I paddled out first near Taco Bell where the crowd had swollen to two, timing it just right so only one duck-dive was required. The water seemed cold but the rising sun added a little warmth. I caught a couple waves but kept sliding off the back. I think maybe I need to force my weight more forward on the pop-up when they're rounding over like that.

After a while I decided to try my luck even farther south, and rode whitewater in to the beach, getting out too near the creek. Mmmm, creek water. I walked down the beach to near the end at the boat docks, where I've never surfed before. Since the rest of the beach is seaweed-free,
I was surprised to see kelp at that end. Turns out Boat Docks is the girl's break, or at least it was this morning, with the peak dominated by 3 female longboarders who were pretty good. Unfortunately I seem to have discovered a limitation of the fish, or maybe it's just my limitation until I get better on it. The wave size was sufficient, but the form was just too moundy, and I couldn't catch anything. I tried moving way inside of the longboarders, who were getting some nice long rides, but nada for me. Being so far inside though, of course it was inevitable that I'd get some duck-diving practice when a bigger set rolled through. After 5 in a row, I had a pounding ice-cream headache despite the hood. I stayed out a bit longer but then it was time to head in and go to work anyway. Which was hard, because after a couple weeks of unreasonably/unseasonably cool temperatures, summer has happily returned, and it was a gorgeous sunny morning.

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