02 December 2012

The Seal Within: Learning to Hold My Breath

Maverick's frequently doles out two-wave holddowns
On a stormy Saturday, I joined my friend Tracey and four guys at the Half Moon Bay high school pool for a class instructed by charming freedive record-holder Hanli Prinsloo from South Africa and champion swimmer Peter Marshall. "This one day workshop is specially developed for surfers, using a training approach we call Surprise Apnea. Apnea is the Greek word for ‘the cessation of breathing’. We will combine physical and mental strength with relaxation techniques to prepare for any hold down, heavy sea or any challenge the ocean may throw at you.I was a little nervous going in, but Hanli's thorough explanations and gradual approach dispelled my jitters well before it was time to get into the pool.

We started off with yoga under two hastily-erected canopies, crowding into the dry space on a bed of mats. When the light rain turned heavy, streams of water found their way inside and soon we were stretching slippery hands and soggy-socked feet into puddles. Wet yoga: it's the next new thing after hot yoga.

Cutting the stretches a bit short, Hanli took us into the swim coach's little office where we got to work on breathing, and not breathing, while learning the science behind both. Unlike dolphins who are "conscious breathers" - to the point where in captivity they can commit suicide by deciding not to breathe anymore - we humans are hardwired to have to breathe. Try to hold your breath right now. Soon your body starts to say please breathe. Then it becomes more insistent. Your diaphragm, a muscle that pulls down to fill your lungs and pushes up to empty them, will start to flutter, or convulse. Breathe, dammit! In the past, that's always where I gave in and took some air. But this class taught me to go farther.

The urge to breathe is triggered not by a lack of oxygen, but by a rise in carbon dioxide, a waste product of respiration, which activates the body's warning system. If you keep holding your breath in the face of rising CO2 levels, your body will take concrete actions to conserve the oxygen you have left. And you have more left than you think. Hanli explained that we have a seal inside us. Seals can dive far and long on a breath, and as soon as we put our faces in the water, our inner seal emerges. Immediately our heart rates slow, conserving oxygen. This bradycardia is the first step in the mammalian diving reflex. Next is peripheral vasoconstriction, the redirection of blood flow from the extremities to the core, which is experienced as a sensation of pressure or tightness in the limbs. If the breath hold continues even longer, the spleen will release oxygenated red blood cells. At the limit, with oxygen levels very low, the body will shut down blood flow to the brain, causing a blackout. At that point, it is critical to start breathing again within about three minutes to avoid brain damage. (A note on hyperventilating before a breath hold: Don't ever do it. That shuts down the body's warning system, and you will go straight to blacking out. If you're in the water, you'll likely die.) While all this is going on, the urge and then demand to breathe is getting stronger and stronger. The key is to relax and let your inner seal take over because your body knows just what to do. Thinking uses oxygen. Struggling uses oxygen. In a holddown, panic is your enemy. Hard as it may seem, you need to try to clear your mind and let the wave take you where it will; don't fight the ocean because you are powerless against it. Conserve your energy and your oxygen and wait for the wave to release you before pushing to the surface for air.

As we lay with our eyes closed, close together on the tiny floor, Hanli lead us through deep belly breathing, taking much fuller, slower and more conscious breaths than usual. Then she asked us to take a last deep breath and hold it. I didn't fight my diaphragm's contractions for long before gasping for air. On the next try, she had us concentrate on not concentrating, relaxing and clearing our minds from the start of the breath hold. "When a thought comes into your mind, don't grab hold of it; watch it pass, like a cloud in a clear blue sky." (This reminded me of an episode of Dollhouse, in which Echo uses "blue skies" to mean everything is fine. That became my breath-hold non-thought, picturing a clear blue sky and trying to think of nothing else. It's better than my previous holddown mantra, the HHGTG-based "Don't Panic!") The second time, I went farther, letting the contractions buck my belly for a bit before succumbing to the lure of air just above my lips. Still, I felt like it hadn't been a very long hold, and I was pretty sure I'd caved before my five classmates. On the last hold, Hanli urged us to extend the relaxation period before the diaphragm started to kick, talking us through it all, and I went a bit longer than before. When she read our hold times, I was surprised to hear that I had lasted longer than some of the others.

Next it was time to get into the pool. After more belly breathing, floating calming on our backs, Hanli had us each in turn flip over to put our masked faces in the water and awaken the inner seal. We'd partnered up, to emphasize that for safety one should always have a buddy when practicing breath holds in the water. Tracey went first, then I gave it a shot. Hanli had to tell me to relax into the water because I was holding my head up. After few more deep inhales and slow exhales, I held my breath and rolled over face down. Hanli spoke encouragement throughout. "I can feel your heart slowing. Relax your shoulders... You're doing great." Blue skies... blue skies.... "Let the contractions come and go; don't fight them. Good." It was almost like I imagine being in a sensory deprivation tank: just floating, relaxed, not thinking (as much as that's possible). "OK, if you want you can put one hand on the wall... and then the other. Very good. Now count my fingers in front of you: 1... 2... 3... 4... 5. And come up. Excellent!" My time: 2:40.
At a prior class, Hanli coaches my friend Shawn, who encouraged me to sign up
We were wearing wetsuits in the heated pool and I swam a lap to warm up a little, but by the time my next turn came around, I was shivering again. Hanli had explained that while water temperature doesn't affect breath hold times, being cold shortens them. So she said I probably wouldn't go as long the second time, and I didn't, coming in at 2:15. That's something to keep in mind at the end of a session on bigger days; she said if you're shivering in the lineup, it's probably time to come in.

After everyone had done two breath holds, with others getting times in excess of 3 minutes, Peter led us through swimming exercises intended to simulate what happens in the ocean - being immersed with a heart beating fast from paddling and less than a lungful of air. When we surfaced from swimming underwater, we practiced taking hook breaths, a short exhale and short inhale filling about 50% of the lungs, which is more effective for recovery than gasping. I normally hold my breath when I swim, after a few laps setting into one breath halfway across a 25-meter pool, so initially it wasn't too hard. My challenges were that the buoyancy of my 4/3 wetsuit constantly floated me to the surface, and that trying to keep up with the boys left me winded a lot. By the time we finished I was happily tired and the rain was pouring down. We changed into mostly dry clothes and crowded back into the office for a wrap up. When I asked where I might find a training partner in San Diego, Hanli suggested attending a meeting of spearfishers. "I bet I'll be the only vegan there," I said wryly. 

I don't know how much farther I'll try to go with breath holding - extending my time is not an immediate need since I don't plan to charge Maverick's anytime soon (or ever) - but I'm glad I took the class. I feel better equipped to deal with the lesser holddowns all surfers experience from time to time. Now I know that under near-ideal circumstances, I can go without breathing for over two-and-a-half minutes, which is much longer than any holddown I could reasonably expect at my surfing level. Blue skies.

What we practiced in this workshop has inherent risks and is best learned with an instructor. For more information on training with Hanli, see www.hanliprinsloo.com.

An edited version of this post appears on The Inertia.

30 November 2012

Happiness is Calling!

I've just accepted a job in San Diego, land of bootie-free surfing and beach living. My period of unemployment and our time in NorCal will soon be coming to a close. I'll miss all of my cold-water surf buddies but am excited to begin a new chapter in our lives.

26 November 2012

The Break Around the Corner (Rockaway)

There's a big storm coming that will bring swell and destroy it with strong winds. So of course I had to surf today. I'm not much into the whole holiday shopping thing anyway.

Two surfers were just finishing up a Dunes, and one of them told me it was better before but had lost its shape on the dropping tide. She then offered the report for Montara (too big), the Jetty (too small), and Linda Mar (closed out), but suggested that Miramar might be OK since she'd seen a couple people out. I drove on.
Dunes. I should've been there earlier.
She was right about them all, except that Miramar didn't have much going on either, and an onshore southwest wind was coming up in Half Moon Bay. As I neared my break of last resort, Linda Mar, I thought I might as well check a bit farther north at Rockaway, since the tide was dropping fast and I'd heard it could be good on a low tide.
Rockaway
There were just several guys out at the south end of Rockaway, a few going for big outside rights, and one riding smaller inside lefts, which seemed good to me. A dude in the parking lot (Todd of Mendonesia Surf) said something about it looking different but I told him this was only my second time. He then gave me a tip about the often-strong currents before darting to the beach with his colorful, wide, and leashless single fin shortboard.

It was true about the current. A helpful rip near the rocks was my conveyor belt, but it was hard to stay left of the peak with the steady push south. And as one of the other surfers commented, the wave was punchy - and I kept getting punched. After a wave hurled my head and shoulder into the sand bottom (that's gonna hurt tomorrow), I moved farther outside, recognizing that I couldn't surf there in waist-deep water without appreciable risk; I'm not that consistently good yet. It was definitely a more challenging place to surf than just around the corner and I'm glad I paddled out there instead of joining the lunch rush at Linda Mar.
When the stars (starfish?) aligned and I got into position and made the drop, I rode several sweet lefts that allowed for some turns. Soon it had been just me and Todd on the left, and he hooted me on one wave and called me into my last. It's so nice when someone brings a friendly vibe - a spirit of aloha - into the water. I left smiling in the sunshine, stoked and happy.

Surfline: NW swell continues to come down this afternoon while mixing with some small SSW swell. Waves are still fun size, mainly in the 3-5'+ range but the SW winds blowing right now are putting a little bit of texture/bump on the ocean surface at the more exposed spots. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 4.6 ft at 12.1 s WNW 108 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 4.0 s WNW / WVHT: 4.9 ft / APD: 6.9 s / MWD: 296° (Met) WSPD: 8 kn / GST: 10 kn / WVHT: 4.6 ft / DPD: 12.0 s / ATMP: 52° F / WTMP: 56° F. Tide: 2.5' falling to 1.5'.

24 November 2012

Off (HMB Jetty)

It wasn't yesterday. But: I got a few decent rides. Darren said Luke and I should've won an award for synchronized paddling (neither of us got the wave). And the beautiful summerish weather continues.
Surfline: Clean, fun surf on offer as West-WNW (270-310) swell eases through the day. Better exposed breaks continue to offer chest-shoulder-head high+ surf, as top spots pull in some 1-2' overhead sets. A deep 6' high tide topping out just before report time is slowing most of the region down substantially. Look for improving conditions through the morning as the tide backs out. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 5.3 ft at 11.4 s W 107 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.8 s NW / WVHT: 5.6 ft / APD: 6.8 s / MWD: 278° (Met) WSPD: 4 kn / GST: 6 kn / WVHT: 5.6 ft / DPD: 11.0 s / ATMP: 56° F / WTMP: 56° F. Tide: 3.5' falling to 2.5'.

23 November 2012

Blue Friday (Dunes)

Much better than shopping. Luke and I had a great surf (and credit to him for the post title). Stoked!
Surfline: Clean, fun surf on offer as West-WNW (270-310) swell eases through the day. Better exposed breaks continue to offer chest-shoulder-head high+ surf, as top spots pull in some 1-2' overhead sets. Look for improving conditions through the morning as the tide backs out. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 4.9 ft at 11.4 s WNW 106 / 4.6 ft at 14.8 s SW / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.7 s NW / WVHT: 4.9 ft / APD: 6.5 s (Met) WSPD: 6 kn / GST: 8 kn / WVHT: 4.9 ft / DPD: 11.0 s / ATMP: 55° F / WTMP: 56° F. Tide: 4' falling to 2.5'.

20 November 2012

Shralping the Gnar (La Jolla Shores)

As I left the airport, I plucked a copy of 101 Things to Do in San Diego from a display of tourism brochures (which curiously also held a guide to Monterey Bay back home). It explained that surfing has been part of the city's culture since the Duke rode waves at Ocean Beach in 1916, and that "today, thousands of locals 'shralp the gnar' daily at San Diego's fine beaches." Say what?!
After my interview (which I think went pretty well, fingers crossed) and a drive around the beach neighborhood where we'd probably live, it was time to find a rental surfboard and go shralp me some gnar before my return flight. Luke had recommended Surf Diva's boards and I was lucky to find they had a 6'6" fish.
Pretty fishy
Sadly, the beaches down south are segregated
With a steady onshore breeze, the surf looked junk from the sand, yet somehow the Diva board turned junk to gold. The fish had three fin boxes but was set up as a twin and turned easily, while getting me into a lot of the mushy chest- to shoulder-high waves. Surfing without booties was icing on the cake. It was a great session - so much fun!
I could get used to this!
Surfline: Still fun as our peaky combo of mainly WNW and secondary SW swell eases. Most better exposed areas are continuing to see waves in the waist-chest high range, with some larger set waves for top exposures running shoulder high+. Onshore flow is slowly on the rise, but not hurting conditions too badly as the tide approaches a 4.14' mid afternoon high. Onshore flow continues to build through the afternoon, though, so best to get some waves now if you plan on surfing this afternoon. Buoy 46231: (Wave) SWELL: 2.6 ft at 12.5 s W 105 / WIND WAVE: 2.6 ft at 9.1 s WNW / WVHT: 3.9 ft / APD: 7.0 s / MWD: 275° (Met) WVHT: 3.9 ft / DPD: 13.0 s / WTMP: 64° F. Tide: 4' high falling slightly.