10 January 2016

What Lies Beneath, Part II

After heavy rains kept me out of the water most of last week, I was jonesing. Plans to surf Crystal Pier with Mike and Steve were scuttled when I couldn't find parking – which is typically for June but unusual in January.
While I was checking conditions at Hennemans, a dude came up the path with his face covered in blood. He'd found the reef with his head after only a few waves, at high tide nonetheless. At least he was smiling about it, and a paramedic walked up to look him over.
The longboarders weren't sharing and I was on my 6'2" since I'd planned on beachbreak, but still I rode some fun waves. I got a nice drop on an almost head-high right, and my last wave was a carvey left that took me all the way in before the tide dropped too low.
Tuesday the surf is supposed to amp up to 8-12 feet plus. Time to put on my big girl wetsuit.

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