wave journal of a surfer girl: When September Comes...

07 August 2015

When September Comes...

... most of the tourists will go home and we should have better surf.

from the Surline cam rewind

I'm looking forward to it. But this morning's grovel was better than nothing.

2 comments:

B.D. August 08, 2015
Agreed! August always sucks. I'm going to try and get a firm four weeks of good work outs though and get some underwater work too. This fall should be awesome!
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Nancy Spooner BsharahAugust 29, 2015
Wait until you see October! My favorite month in the water!
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Dawn at the beach. Air almost 50 degrees, water slightly warmer. Full moon hanging over the ocean, sun rising from the hills. Swell gently lifting my surfboard a little closer to the sky as it passes by on its way to touch the beach. Icy water trickling down the front of my wetsuit. Feet going numb from the cold despite neoprene booties and thermal socks. Two dolphins in the lineup chase silver fish, who leap into the air in a swirling mass, sparkling in the first rays of the sun. Then "pwwwfff!" as another dolphin surfaces and exhales not a dozen feet from me, before gracefully sliding back under the water. What a great way to start the day!