The good:
Serendipitously meeting new surf buddy, George, in the water
Semi-sunny skies and warmish air
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| Cute little grom checking the surf, but I didn't see him in the water |
The bad:
Strong sideshore breeze and current
Tweaking my wrist again
The ugly:
Messy, mixed up waves
Getting skunked
Surfline: Surf has come down a few notches today but still remains pretty large with our mix of West swell and SSW southern hemi swell holding up consistent head to double overhead surf at good breaks. Standouts go larger on sets. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 10.8 ft at 13.8 s NW 28 / WIND WAVE: 3.3 ft at 6.2 s WNW / WVHT: 11.2 ft / APD: 8.9 s / MWD: 305° (Met) WSPD: 17 kn / GST: 21 kn / WVHT: 11.2 ft / DPD: 14.0 s / WDIR: 310° / ATMP: 51° F. Tide: 2' rising to 3'.
They were mushy, I was going to take my 6'8" out but glad I went with my 8' was able to sit outside the crowd and pick off the outside ones a la Jacob. The sideshore was nasty, but I got a few nice rides.
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