01 June 2011

Mmm, South Swell (Cowells)

With a south groundswell and a negative low tide, there were some fun little waves to be had at Cowells. Getting up at 4 am was well worth it.
My arms tired quickly (probably since I swam extra long yesterday) and I didn't want to fight the pack of longboarders on the main peak, so I stayed on the inside and had a break to myself much of the time. The waves were soft and I was on my 7'0" Emm, so I had to be at the peak and wait for the bigger set waves, which were going around chest-high. I got many fun rides that, while not long for Cowells, were longer than I've had in a while. It was nice to have a shoulder to play on. Stoked!
Interesting water droplet effect
Surfline: 1-3 ft. Soft, small scale lines for the longboard. South (190-170) groundswell builds in further and peaks today, mixing with continued NW-WNW (290-310) mid period swell. Better exposed breaks are seeing surf in the waist-chest-head high range this morning, as top exposures pull in a few overhead+ sets. Winds are light out of the North for clean conditions through town. Shape is a little drained coming off a 5am negative low tide, with most areas improving through the morning with the tide push. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 7.9 ft at 11.4 s NW 43 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.4 s WSW / WVHT: 7.9 ft / APD: 8.8 s / MWD: 306° (Met) WSPD: 6 kts / GST: 8 kts / WVHT: 7.9 ft / DPD: 11.0 s / WDIR: 180° / ATMP: 52.3° F / WTMP: 51.6° F. Tide: Less than 0' rising to just above.

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