01 January 2008

Montara, 1 January 2008

The first day of the new year was absolutely gorgeous at this beach, 67 degrees and sunny with light offshores, while just a few miles up and down the road the wind was stiff and the air 10 degrees cooler. Surf was inconsistent and just under head high with light crowds. Who could ask for anything more?
I've finally recognized that my poor duck-diving skills are holding me back not only on getting out, but more critically, on wave-catching. With the shortboard, I need to sit farther inside and catch waves later, but the truth is, I'm scared to be in the right place. Without the ability to duck dive the outside sets that break before they reach me, I'll get rolled and tumbled towards the beach sometimes, and I've been avoiding that by sitting farther out or way on the shoulder. So I'm safer, but I don't catch anything either. Getting a duck-diving lesson, and practicing until I'm confident, are now my top priorities.

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