07 May 2024

What a Difference the Tide Makes

On day two, Max, Sherri and I went back to La Paz with coaches Stanley and Santos, but this time at high tide later in the morning. I was glad to have rested and eaten first and felt more ready to surf. The swell was perhaps a little smaller, but the entry was doable with softer waves at that tide. There we also sea turtles this time, poking their heads out of the 85-degree murky water to look at us.

Rusty and out of practice, I fell on my first couple waves and had to bail on the third because Sherri was in my path. On some, I fell backwards and gave myself wedgies. 

My last wave was the best and I rode it all the way to the inside, but sadly the videographer only caught fragments. Still stoked!

The entry and exit were hairy with waves pushing all the way up the rocks. Near shore, the coaches took our boards and helped us out safely although with a few bumps and scrapes on the rocks.

In video analysis later, Stanley pointed out a number of things I'm doing wrong that are baked into muscle memory and need to be unlearned: holding the rails instead of palms flat on the deck to pop up in cobra position, and sometimes my right hand forward of my left. This causes me to land with my right (front) foot partly behind the centerline, which puts my weight off the middle and sends my arms to the left to counterbalance - not the proper surf stance.

Sherri and Max flanked by coaches Santos and Stanley

The Puro Surf program includes training on land as well. I haven't skateboarded in a while, but yesterday the coaches started us off gently on the flats before we moved to the concrete wave to practice turns and pumping. Although I brought wrist guards, I'd hoped for full safety gear, but fortunately I had no falls and it was good fun training. I might check out the local skate parks when I get home, for more land surfing practice.

06 May 2024

Misnomer

Although I'd arrived late a night and slept only 5 hours, the call time for the first day of surf camp was 6 a.m. The restaurant unfortunately did not open until 7:30 so there was no opportunity for a coffee drink or food before getting in the water. Luckily I always travel with a supply of Clif Bars so I wasn't completely out of fuel, just low energy.

The view from my room

After an introductory theory session and some pop up practice with Coach Stanley, Canadians Sherri and Max and I joined Jordy and Scott from Australia and Sara from France in the van for a half hour drive to a beach town break called La Paz. It was all shortboards on top of the van (mine for the week was a 6'6" Firewire Greedy Beaver) except for Sherri's longboard.

While La Paz means peace, it was anything but peaceful.

We'd each been given a spiral-bound notebook where Stanley helped us to fill in a venue analysis as well as goals for the session. 

My sketch after Stanley augmented it 

After warm-ups led by assistant coach Santos, we carried our boards across the rock and cobblestone beach to near the waterline. I was already feeling trepidation at the sight of 4-5' shorebreak that was the price of admission to the point break's overhead waves. There was no channel and not a rip current to be found.

My fears were warranted as it proved impossible for me to make it to the outside. I tried several times, with Santos urging me on, but only had holddowns in the spin cycle to show for it. He sat with me on the stony beach for a time, encouraging me to make another attempt, until I convinced him that I know my limits and this was one of them.

Sherri came in soon after. She said she had barely made it out and then realized she was too scared to try to catch any waves. 
Stanley helping Sherri from the water

We headed back to the hotel early with Stanley, leaving the others to it. And at long last, I got coffee and breakfast.
Finally coffee

05 May 2024

In Search of Stoke

I haven't surfed much in the last few years. Surgery on both of my feet in series to correct bunions, and then a badly broken wrist that necessitated two more surgeries, kept me landbound. When I did make it out, the poor waves on the Central Coast and my lack of surf fitness conspired to leave me joyless. In search of my lost stoke, I booked a week of coaching in warm water, at Puro Surf Performance Academy in El Zonte, El Salvador.

El Salvador was suggested by my old San Diego surf buddy, Mike, but he wouldn't be able to go until much later in the year, so I went solo and ready for adventure.

Seen on the airport wall

03 August 2022

Purple Toes and Mosquitoes


Fun surf at Martinique Beach! Only my second surf in a year, after the foot surgeries. But the universe was laughing at me. Because renting a wetsuit seems icky, I went to all the trouble of bringing my wetsuit, gloves and booties, filling up half of my carry-on/only bag, and then left them at the AirBnB over an hour away. Fortunately there was a surf school renting wetsuits on the beach.
The lack of accessories was rough. My feet and hands weirdly felt like they were on fire during the paddle out, but soon numbed up. My toes turned purple from the cold, contrasting nicely with Ella&Mila Wheels on the Bus yellow nail polish.
We got some fun waves, lefts and rights, (hopefully) worth the pesky mosquito bites in the parking lot.

🏄‍♀️🏄‍♂️🌊😃 #stoked

05 April 2020

Rules of C-land: How to Survive the Coronapocalypse


Rule #1: Cardio – You can’t run away from the virus, but being in good health will help you fight it off. So get moving!

Rule #2: The Double Tap – Never assume the virus is gone. Always make sure by washing your hands for at least 20 seconds and cleaning your cell phone regularly.

Rule #3: Beware of Bathrooms – The virus can be sneaky. Be cautious when using public facilities, beware the toilet cloud plume, and don’t touch surfaces with your bare hands after washing them.

Rule #4: Wear Your Seatbelt – There will already be enough to worry about as hospitals fill up with COVID-19 patients. Make sure you’re buckled in secure, just in case.

Rule #5: No Attachments – Don’t be too attached to your buddies while you practice safe social distancing. You may not get to spend time with them for a while, but that’s OK. You’ll see them on the other side of this pandemic.

Rule #6: Cast Iron Skillet – This household item is great for cooking pancakes and all those new recipes you haven’t had time to make. While you’re sheltering at home, use your skillet to cook up a storm.

Rule #7: Travel Light – Only carry the necessities. There’s no need to buy a year’s supply of toilet paper, especially since that might leave your neighbors asking if you can spare a square.

Rule #8: Get a Kickass Partner – Always good to have a close friend or loved one on your side, so don’t hesitate to reach out if you need toilet paper or emotional support.

Rule #9: With Your Bare Hands – Don’t touch your face!

Rule #10: Don’t Swing Low – Half-assed measures won’t flatten the curve. Treat shelter-at-home orders seriously so we can lick this thing. And wear a face mask if you must go out - the CDC shows how to make one from any cloth here.

Rule #11: Use Your Feet – Running, jumping, dancing, walking a dog. Moving your feet can help you stay happy and healthy.

Rule #12: Paper Towels – When it comes to the coronavirus, you can never be too clean. Always carry these for messes, big or small, along with hand sanitizer.

Rule #13: Shake It Off – Whether it be bad thoughts, shock, or cabin fever, you gotta shake it off.

Rule #14: Always Carry a Change of Underwear – You never know when you might need it.

Rule #15: Bowling Ball – Keep it in your closet until after the coronapocalyse.

Rule #16: Opportunity Knocks – And whenever it does, make sure you answer through the door.

Rule #17: (Don’t) Be a Hero – Unless it’s a matter of life and death, there’s no need to show off. And this is a matter of life and death, so please step up to help however you can.

Rule #18: Limber Up – Nothing will slow you down like a pulled muscle, and you want to keep doing that cardio, right?

Rule #19: Break It Up – It’s always good to blow off a little steam. If the coronapocalypse has you all stressed out, go ahead and break something. Just make sure it’s not anything important.

Rule #20: It’s a Marathon, Not a Sprint – It’s going to take time to see the results of social distancing. Give it long enough and we will flatten the curve.

Rule #21: Avoid Strip Clubs – Also avoid other nonessential businesses. Like gun shops. And ATV rental concessions.

Rule #22: When in Doubt, Know Your Way Out – Know what works for you to relieve stress - yoga, coloring, brushing a cat, a virtual happy hour with your friends - and use it when needed.

Rule #23: Ziploc – Those little bags are for more than sandwiches. Use them to store your face masks and keep caches of sanitizing wipes wherever they could come in handy.

Rule #24: Use Your Thumbs – And then wash your hands for at least 20 seconds.

Rule #25: Shoot First – If in doubt, assume something’s covered in coronavirus and act accordingly.

Rule #26: A Little Sunscreen Never Hurt Anybody – Do you really wanna have to worry about sunburn, too? Put it on if you’re outside.

Rule #27: Incoming! – Always be on your toes. You never know what could come out of nowhere.

Rule #28: Double-knot Your Shoes – You don’t want to trip over unsecured laces while running for cardio, now do you?

Rule #29: The Buddy System –This is a great time to make a new buddy, so contact your local animal shelter if you have room in your home and your heart.

Rule #30: Pack Your Stain Stick – You never known when the sidewalk might trip you up, especially if you’re new to cardio or looking at your phone.

Rule #31: Check the Back Seat – Make sure you have reusable bags when you go shopping for essentials, and wash them often.

Rule #32: Enjoy the Little Things – It’ll help you stay positive.

Rule #33: Swiss Army Knife – Multitools are always a good idea, and this is a great time to do those simple home repairs you’ve been putting off.

Rule #34: It’s About We, Not Me – Yeah, you need a haircut. But that’s not worth the life of your stylist’s grandma, is it? Stop being selfish and behave like a caring human being.

Rule #35: Clean socks – Put on clean socks, underwear, a shirt and pants everyday. You’ll feel better if you dress for success, even if you’re working from home.

Rule #36: Beware of Dumb People – We’re only as safe as the stupidest among us. If they think coronavirus is just a cold so they won’t bother with a face mask or social distancing, they put us all at risk. Steer clear.

Rule #37: Bidet – Tired of driving to five different stores looking for toilet paper? Get a bidet and conquer the toilet paper shortage.

Rule #38: Stop Eating Animals – No one should have to die for your dinner, especially other humans. Poor, mostly brown or black, sometimes sick people work under dangerous conditions at meat plants.

Rule #39: Never Give Up – and never surrender. One day at a time, we’ll get through this.

Rule #40: Embrace the Box – Zoom box, waiting-for-the-cashier box at Trader Joe’s - stay in it and be safe.

Rule #41: Theme Song – Find a catchy tune that cheers you up and makes your feet tap when you hear it. Bonus if it has a 20-second snippet to hum while you wash your hands.

Rule #42: Have Compassion for Prisoners – Being arrested while poor shouldn’t become a death sentence. Defendants released on zero bail would be free already if they could afford it, and they’re innocent until proven guilty.

Rule #43: "Shall” Can Mean “Must,” “Will” or “May" – Pandemic restrictions are easing. Shall we hug? No, we shall continue to maintain physical distance outside our households, wear masks in public, and follow medical advice from health experts and not politicians.

Rule #44: Take a Break From the Headlines – Do you really need to know the latest COVID-19 statistics or another way the federal government bungled pandemic response? Step away for a while, or change the channel to Some Good News.

31 March 2018

Smooth as Almond Butter

My awesome boyfriend got me a new surfboard! Firewire TimberTek Almond Butter, 6'0"x20.25"x2.75", 38.5L #stoked
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Firewire Almond Butter