wave journal of a surfer girl: She's a Blur

28 October 2015

She's a Blur

Pre-surf, taken with my new Samsung Galaxy S6

Hennemans was pretty fun again today until the rising high tide killed it. Tammy took photos of me from the cliff, using her old Samsung Galaxy 3. She needs a new phone, but I like the sequence!

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Dawn at the beach. Air almost 50 degrees, water slightly warmer. Full moon hanging over the ocean, sun rising from the hills. Swell gently lifting my surfboard a little closer to the sky as it passes by on its way to touch the beach. Icy water trickling down the front of my wetsuit. Feet going numb from the cold despite neoprene booties and thermal socks. Two dolphins in the lineup chase silver fish, who leap into the air in a swirling mass, sparkling in the first rays of the sun. Then "pwwwfff!" as another dolphin surfaces and exhales not a dozen feet from me, before gracefully sliding back under the water. What a great way to start the day!