30 October 2015

Rising to the Challenge

This morning I surfed wild and woolly Hennemans alone.
Tammy and Kristen opted for the smaller surf of Tourmaline. A dude named Min, who found me online somewhere, met me at Calumet Park and followed me down the muddy cliff path to the cobblestone beach. There were three guys at Sewers but Hens was empty. With a mix of southwest groundswell and bigger northwest windswell, there was no channel, and waves smashed as shorepound onto the cobblestones. I waited several minutes for a good time to paddle out.

"You know," Min said, "I think I'm going to go to Windansea. It's too rocky for me here."

"Okay," I replied, before seeing an opening and plunging into the water. 

I caught a wave from the edge of the whitewater as soon as I got out. The surf was a bit overhead and disorganized, but I had a fun ride to the inside. One more of those and I was done; the tide was rising and the exit would only get more sketchy. My main goal was not to get hurt on the cusp of my trip to Surf Simply in Costa Rica.

Right now I'm closing down a bar in Phoenix, nursing an exceptionally tiny glass of overpriced wine while I wait for a 1 a.m. flight to Miami. It's a long route, SAN > PHX > MIA > LIR (Liberia) with 3-4 hour layovers, but that's the nonmonetary cost of using frequent flyer miles. By afternoon tomorrow, I'll be in Nosara. So stoked!

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