After more than two weeks away from surf, it felt so go to walk into the ocean north of Crystal Pier this morning with my trusty 6'2" under my arm. The water was chilly on my feet as I shuffled over the sand. Small crumbly whitewater splashed me as the onshore breeze blew back my hair, still greasy after more than 24 hours of traveling and a short sleep. My desperado session ultimately paid off with a long left. I had to work the turns to keep my board where the wave had enough energy to push it all the way to the beach.
Sweet!
The biggest waves I saw in Greece were these.
 |
| Mykonos |
 |
| Perissa Beach, Santorini |
 |
| Boat wake in the caldera, Santorini |
 |
| Natural rock sculpture on the trail from Fira to Oia, Santorini |
The rest of the time, the ocean was flat. But certainly not the land.
 |
| Firostefani, Santorini |
Compared to San Diego, there was little wildlife in or out of the ocean. But having your feet nibbled by tiny fish was all the rage.
 |
| Kissingfish, Oia, Santorini |
There were sharks though.
 |
| Oia, Santorini |
And I saw many ancient sirens but only one mermaid.
 |
| Folklore Museum, Mykonos |
There was even a surf shop that sold nothing for surfing.
 |
| 2 pm closing time, Paros |
It's good to be home and surfing again. And so nice to be able to flush toilet paper.
No comments:
Post a Comment