The surf was really fun this morning, solid head high plus. I'd lowered my expectations when I got out of my car at Calumet Park and felt the north breeze, and dropped them further when I paddled out through the choppy channel. But the surface was smother in the lineup at Hens, populated by five other friendly surfers, including Teresa and two others from yesterday.
I got five good long lefts to the inside that put a gin on my face. It's so nice to have a big face to play on.
Again I overstayed, lingering with a sixth latecomer after the others had gone. It's so hard to know when to leave – a great wave makes me want another, while a bad ride just can't be the last one. On the inside, I caught a wave that was good enough, and left smiling.
Yeah!
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