13 February 2011

Wait (HMB Jetty)

With the swell forecast similar to last Sunday but conditions looking better, low wind and a lot less chop, I'd hoped to surf Rachel's Point again for some overhead fun. I beat the bushes for someone to join me but came up empty, and I just don't feel comfortable surfing there alone. It's likely that not only would no one be in the water (except for some shark snacks, a.k.a. seals), but no one would be on the beach or bluffs either. It's a pretty lonely spot, despite being not that far from the beaten path. So instead off I went for a solo session at the Jetty, where I could find solace in the company of strangers.
There wasn't much of a crowd, only half a dozen guys in the water, a mix of short- and longboarders. Waves were shoulder- to head-high but the swell was disorganized and inconsistent. The lulls were so long they were hard to bear, given the cold air (41F). With shoulders scarce and fleeting, it was mostly about the drop, and I nailed some fun ones with short rides. I love it when a drop make me hoot!
Waiting for waves
Surfline: New NW groundswell tops out around mid-day with plenty of head high to overhead surf at the better exposed breaks. Standout NW spots produce occasional sets running a few feet overhead to double overhead. Modest SW groundswell mixes in with 3-4' sets at well exposed breaks. Peaky for beachbreaks that have a good balance to the combo. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 5.9 ft at 13.8 s W 14 / WIND WAVE: 0.7 ft at 2.9 s NW / WVHT: 5.9 ft / APD: 11.3 s / MWD: 277° (Met) WSPD: 6 kts / GST: 10 kts / WVHT: 5.9 ft / DPD: 14.0 s / WDIR: 320° / ATMP: 49.1° F / WTMP: 52.5° F. Tide: 4' falling to 2.5'.

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