A Cold Splash Before the Heat (Dunes)

Just after noon, I joined J-Bird, Jacob, Luke and Caro in the water at Dunes for one more cold-water surf before we head south to warmer waters. It was a fine summer day in winter, sunny and in the 60s, with a growing offshore wind.

Jacob and Luke sharing a wave

Luke, still riding

The channel gave me a dry-hair paddle out. I had three goals today: don't get hurt, don't get my board dinged, and ride a few waves, with the first two being most important ahead of our imminent surf trip. Since head-high closeouts were rolling through at times, my wave selection was cautious. The longboarders were getting some nice rides but I found it hard to get into the waves, or perhaps I was being too timid. I moved inside and caught a couple of fun left reforms, playing with turns on responsive Rocket, riding in close to the beach. Since my buddies had been quite early and I joined them a little late, I ended up catching a meh ride in after only an hour to join them on the beach. I'm still hungry, but I'll be eating my fill of tropical waves soon enough.

Luke, Caro and J-Bird show off their moves

Caro and J-Bird high-kicking

Caro, Luke, me, Jacob and J-bird

Girls playing in the waves

J-Bird and Caro getting splashed

I was glad I hadn't stayed out longer, since when I got home there was barely enough sun left to melt the wax off of my 6'2" before it dropped below the hill. Now I'll pack up Rocket for the journey to the Pacific coast of Nicaragua on Friday. Scott and I will spend a week at Holly Beck's surf camp, Suave Dulce, and then explore on our own for a few days. I'll be unplugged and offline until we're back home.

If Surfline can be believed, we're in for some fun tropical surf. I can't wait!

Surfline: Old WNW (260-300) energy fades this morning, blending with local NW windswell and some small, building long-period NW swell. Expect less size as the decent breaks see shoulder-head high waves. Standouts go slightly bigger on those top sets. Offshore wind. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.2 ft at 12.1 s WNW 02 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.1 s NW / WVHT: 6.2 ft / APD: 7.9 s / MWD: 292° (Met) WSPD: 4 kts / GST: 8 kts / WVHT: 6.2 ft / DPD: 12.0 s / WDIR: 30° / ATMP: 55.9° F / WTMP: 53.4° F. Tide: 2' falling to 1.5'.

The Maverick's Contest: (Almost) Everything Changes

Watching a surf contest on TV is a far cry from seeing it in person, and the Nor Cal community deserves the opportunity to see with our own eyes the feats of the best male big wave riders in the world. I want to take in the big picture, watch the massive waves approaching, the surfers turning their guns and paddling into them, then the drop and ride, or brutal wipeout. I don't want to listen to nattering commentators and miss details because the webcast has cut away from live action to a commercial, an interview, or a replay of the money shot. I want to see the contest, unfiltered, unfold before my eyes, experiencing the immensity of the monster waves rising from the expansive sea and the skill and fearlessness of the surfers who ride them. But I can't, not this year.

A giant wave at Mavericks during the 2010 contest

The last time the Maverick's big wave surf contest was held, in January '10, the organizers were careless with public safety. People got hurt when waves predictably rolled over the breakwall at high tide and inundated an area where tents had been set up amidst mud puddles left by the previous high tide. And in '06, a woman was hit on the head by a rock falling from the bluff above.

The aftermath of the '10 flood

This time will be different. No one, not even the media, will be allowed to see the contest from the bluff or beach. Instead, tickets may be purchased for $25-40, plus a $10 parking fee, to watch the contest webcast on a big TV at a nearby hotel. Only those with a boat, or willing to pay around $200 to secure a spot on a re-purposed fishing vessel, will be able to watch in person. And the harbormaster is trying to discourage viewing from private boats, which will be kept at a distance.

The little girl wanted to see some dogs, so her parents took her to the dog park and let her wander around unattended. As she stood in the middle of the field, an exuberant Great Dane raced past and knocked her down in the dirt. When she fell, she twisted her ankle and tore her dress. Aghast, her parents decreed that the little girl, and also her teenage sister, must never watch dogs at the dog park again, not even from the sidewalk outside the fence. Instead, they must content themselves with seeing dogs on TV from the safety of the sofa. 

The response to previous carelessness at Maverick's is overcaution now. Jeff Clark, back in charge of the re-christened Mavericks Invitational contest, had this to say about the '10 incident: It wasn't a rogue wave. It was one of those things that needed to be planned for and they didn't have anybody to plan for it. That will never happen again.

The view through a telephoto lens in '10 (by Luke Kilpatrick)

So why not just hire someone to plan for it? There are ways to ensure public safety that fall far short of blocking all access to the shoreline. For starters, no scaffolding on the beach, no tents or people within the high tide line, and no walking out on the breakwall for a better view. A stay-out zone could be established at the edge of the bluff and on the beach below. A ticket system for shore access could be implemented to prevent overcrowding and ensure spectator awareness of the rules. Public access need not be entirely forbidden.

It's hard to conceive of any public safety rationale to justify barring the media from viewing the contest from shore. The press group would be small, willing to abide by reasonable restrictions and easy to to patrol. At the '10 contest, a media area was established at the top of the bluff, with access limited to credentialed members of the press. A similar scheme should have been implemented this time around. Instead, all contest-goers are offered only a sanitized TV show, so near Maverick's and yet so far.

While the contest has changed radically for spectators, one thing sadly remains the same as in prior years: no women have been invited to compete.

She can surf Mavericks, but not in the contest

This post was published on The Inertia.

Surfing In the New Year (HMB Jetty)

There's no better way to start the day - or the year - than in the ocean. Although fireworks briefly woke me, I skipped the New Year's Eve midnight celebration to be fresh for a morning surf on the first day of 2012. I must be getting old because I'd much rather surf than party and sleep in, hungover or not.

There were only two guys out when I arrived at the Jetty, a longboarder and a shortboarder, but a handful of others of both flavors joined us later.

The waves were jumbled and mostly closed out away from the main peak, and many rides were pretty much just drops.

My best wave was a left stolen from inside of the pack on the main peak, when I found myself lined up at just the right spot and a little voice in my head shouted, "turn and go - now!" A few strokes and I had it, swooping into an almost head-high frontside drop. The wave didn't close out immediately, giving me a quick shoulder before it sectioned and I turned right, riding whitewater away from the exposed rocks and in close to the beach. Woot!

That nice left was soon followed by a right nearly as big that did close out immediately. I made the drop and almost rode it out but my new 6'2" Rocket requires a precision of more subtle movement and finer control that I haven't mastered yet. Fortunately, in less than two weeks, Scott and I - and Rocket, despite the exorbitant airline fees - will be at Holly Beck's surf retreat on the Pacific coast of Nicaragua, where I'll have plenty of time to practice in 82°F (28°C) water. Yeah!

Coastside winter flowers

Happy New Year! Wishing you all good waves in 2012.

Surfline: Solid WNW (280-300) swell slowly eases as small SW (190-210) trickles in at exposed areas. Decent-sized head high+ to overhead+ surf continues, while top breaks still hit that double overhead mark on occasion. Smooth, clean conditions thanks to offshore ENE wind. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s WNW 01 / WIND WAVE: 1.6 ft at 3.6 s ENE / WVHT: 7.2 ft / APD: 7.8 s / MWD: 292° (Met) WSPD: 4 kts / GST: 6 kts / WVHT: 7.2 ft / DPD: 13.0 s / WDIR: 140° / ATMP: 54.5° F / WTMP: 53.2° F. Tide: Less than 3' falling to 2'.

Lower (HMB Jetty)

Swell, sun and tide were all lower than last time at the Jetty.

The waves were mostly closed out, but I rode several before the sun set on my final surf session of 2011. Here's to getting a full barrel in the new year!

Surfline: This afternoon there's a slowly easing but still solid WNW (280-300) groundswell, with head high+ to double overhead zone surf (6-10') at exposed spots and some larger sets at the better breaks. Winds are light onshore for mainly semi-clean conditions. The tide will steadily back out through the rest of the day. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 7.5 ft at 12.9 s WNW 105 / WIND WAVE: 2.3 ft at 5.3 s WNW / WVHT: 7.9 ft / APD: 8.2 s / MWD: 302° (Met) WSPD: 12 kts / GST: 14 kts / WVHT: 7.9 ft / DPD: 13.0 s / WDIR: 340° / ATMP: 52.2° F / WTMP: 54.1° F. Tide: 1' falling to 0'.

Demi-Barrel (HMB Jetty)

Although the tide was almost 7' high this morning, Luke predicted the surf at the Jetty would be good on the current swell, offering photos of similar conditions in January as proof. Most who'd said they would join us bailed, and Luke and Carolina arrived early. At the appointed hour, Caro was already done, having been spit up onto the beach by the consistently overhead surf, but Luke said he'd paddle out with me to catch one more wave. He reached the lineup slightly ahead of me and caught that one before I'd caught my breath, leaving me alone in the company of shortboarding strangers.

The waves were some of the biggest I've ever tried to surf, so this session was as much about conquering a little fear as anything. Or so I told myself as I failed to get any rides. The waves were mushy on the shoulders but pitching and steep as they broke, and many were closing out. Backwash made them unpredictable. The sweet spot for takeoff at the peak - not too deep nor too far on the shoulder - was shifting around, and I couldn't seem to find it. Although I saw better surfers make a few nice rides, and I was picky enough to let most of the closeouts go, all I was getting were rough tumbles on takeoff and light beating on the inside.

Heading out with Luke. Photo by Caro.

Still, while I didn't get any legitimate rides, on one left, for the briefest fraction of a second before I was knocked off my feet, I perceived a roof over my head. SO COOL! My stated goal for 2011 was to get barreled, and while that wasn't fully what I had in mind, my feet were solidly on my board - I wasn't free-falling this time - so I think I'll count it. And the stoke is making me very merry! Thank you, Santa!

Surfline: Excellent conditions on tap this morning as a healthy dose of long-period WNW (285-300) swell blends with fun-sized S (170-190) Southern Hemi energy. Solid surf prevails as exposed areas see overhead to double overhead (8-10') waves. Standout focal points see larger sets to 3x overhead on occasion. Light offshore conditions early. A big 7' high tide tops out just after 9am. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 12.5 ft at 16.0 s WNW 104 / WIND WAVE: 1.6 ft at 3.6 s NE / WVHT: 12.8 ft / APD: 12.5 s / MWD: 294° (Met) WSPD: 10 kts / GST: 14 kts / WVHT: 12.8 ft / DPD: 16.0 s / WDIR: 40° / ATMP: 52.7° F / WTMP: 53.8° F. Tide: 7' falling slightly.

Happy Holidays!

Gear Review: Xcel Infiniti Wetsuit and Panasonic Lumix TS3 Waterproof Camera

OK, so once again, I've gotten behind on my gear reviews. But better late than never - and of course I had to give a fair trial period anyway.

I bought a size 4 women's Xcel Infiniti 4/3 back in October, but didn't start wearing it regularly until last month when the weather and water turned colder. It's been keeping me toasty, but I have a few complaints, and design-wise, it just doesn't measure up against my Rip Curl Insulator. The legs are too long, so the suit bunches around my knees. (Wish I'd noticed this in the store.) Unlike the Rip Curl, the key pocket is located under the chest-zip flap. It has a long elastic string loop which is convenient, but I prefer the leg placement. The chest zip goes awkwardly from right to left and is quite difficult to fasten with gloved hands. I have to start it before I put on a glove, then lock the car and attach the key, stuffing it with some difficulty into the pocket, before zipping up all the way. Or else ask a friend for help. But the biggest failure compared to the Rip Curl Insulator is the lack of an integrated hood. At a comparable cost, it's a glaring omission. A cap leaves my neck exposed and chilly, while my extended hood tends to get pulled out of the suit in the course of a surf session. By contrast, Rip Curl's design zips in the hood and secures it firmly under the suit, keeping my hair mostly dry and blocking water flush through the neck opening. I'm rather dreading the near-freezing dawn patrols to come in my Xcel. In sum, while some of my friends have said their Xcel suits lasted more than one season, I can't see this being a repeat purchase for me. Looking ahead, I've heard very good things about local Montara-based Isurus and they are planning to start a women's line next year. If Isurus makes a winter wetsuit in my size, I'll be first in line. (Update 8/17/12: The Xcel is still keeping me warm and partly dry after the better part of a year. I wish I could combine the fit and features of the Rip Curl with the durability of the Xcel. But in wetsuits, warmth is king, so the Infiniti is back to the top of the list.)

After my Pentax Optio W90 died in October (never again, Pentax!), I picked up a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS3. It's a step up from the Pentax cameras, with extra features like GPS tagging (which gets my location right most of the time). I like that there is a dedicated record button, so I don't have to dig around through menus to switch from taking photos to taking video. With the camera strapped into the latest version of the Wrist Pod, I've been getting good on-the-water and at-the-beach shots while keeping it secure between times. I have noticed some occasional random blurriness in photos that doesn't seem to correlate with any moisture on the lens (one of a series of shots may be affected), but on the whole, it's working well. My only issue, which is a factor with all of the waterproof cameras I've tried, is that it's quite difficult to press small buttons while wearing gloves any thicker than 1.5 mm. I've missed some shots, or in desperation had to ask a gloveless friend to turn the camera on for me. Guess maybe I'll have to let one hand be cold in a thin glove, or design some sort of stylus to press the button. You'd think the waterproof camera manufacturers might make "buttons useable with gloves" a design parameter though, wouldn't you?! (Update 8/17/12: Despite being totally anal about keeping the seals clean and carefully following the other care instructions - except the one about letting the camera dry completely before opening to remove the SD card - the connector ports have both corroded. I don't use them anyway, but still. Worse  are the occasional malfunctions, like turning off immediately after the "on" button is pressed. It's started to take a blurry picture before recording any video, which also sometimes begins blurry. I have the feeling it's on it's last legs, and not even a year old yet.)

Photos/video below taken with the Panasonic Lumix TS3.

Dawn patrol at the Jetty

Free dolphins off Oahu