Although I'd arrived late a night and slept only 5 hours, the call time for the first day of surf camp was 6 a.m. The restaurant unfortunately did not open until 7:30 so there was no opportunity for a coffee drink or food before getting in the water. Luckily I always travel with a supply of Clif Bars so I wasn't completely out of fuel, just low energy.
The view from my room |
After an introductory theory session and some pop up practice with Coach Stanley, Canadians Sherri and Max and I joined Jordy and Scott from Australia and Sara from France in the van for a half hour drive to a beach town break called La Paz. It was all shortboards on top of the van (mine for the week was a 6'6" Firewire Greedy Beaver) except for Sherri's longboard.
While La Paz means peace, it was anything but peaceful.
We'd each been given a spiral-bound notebook where Stanley helped us to fill in a venue analysis as well as goals for the session.
My sketch after Stanley augmented it |
After warm-ups led by assistant coach Santos, we carried our boards across the rock and cobblestone beach to near the waterline. I was already feeling trepidation at the sight of 4-5' shorebreak that was the price of admission to the point break's overhead waves. There was no channel and not a rip current to be found.
My fears were warranted as it proved impossible for me to make it to the outside. I tried several times, with Santos urging me on, but only had holddowns in the spin cycle to show for it. He sat with me on the stony beach for a time, encouraging me to make another attempt, until I convinced him that I know my limits and this was one of them.Stanley helping Sherri from the water |
Finally coffee |
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