Bittersweet

Hennemans served up fun longboard waves for my final San Diego surf before I move up the coast to start a new and better life. Mike, Thais and I had the break to ourselves, and the sea was glassy for much of the session. After surfing the cold ocean at Three Mile with Brad on Monday – and before that, skydiving! – the 62-degree water felt nice, even in my leaky old 4/3.

I rode a bunch of long, carvy lefts. Two were with Mike hooting behind me, party-wave style, including the last, last wave.

Last for a while, anyway. I'll be back to visit.