06 November 2015

Surf Simply: Viernes (Friday)

This morning the waves were bigger, but oddly enough, I had the easiest paddle-out of the week. Kim, the other half of Team Orange, reached the lineup just before me. But our coach, Fran, didn't join us for a long time; she said been caught in a current and swept down the beach.
I rode two rights on the 7'6". The first was a bomb at least 3 feet overhead. I didn't realize how big it was until I saw the video afterwards. Wow. I should've stay higher on the wave though – might've gotten barreled!
The second wave was long. I cut back and rode it all the way in.
Back at the Rancho, the leaky-toilet problems that had plagued me and Jessica all week came to a head (pun intended). This was the fourth repair over a few days, and workers were in full dismantle mode, tying up our bungalow most of the day.
Harry says the stars on MagicSeaweed are only an indication of how crowded it will be.
After a surf forecasting lecture and lunch, I did yoga and then watched a duck-diving lesson in the pool.
Three Michaels being taught to duck-dive by Jessie as Lauren watches in amusement
The final session of the camp was a free surf at dusk. Ru, the founder of Surf Simply, joined us, swimming with a Go-Pro. The sunset was obscured by clouds, and hard rain fell briefly while we waited for waves. I got a couple of rides, one long. Although I didn't get an epic last wave to close out the week, I smiled on my belly ride to the beach when coach Jessie formed a barrel with her arms and called me under it. So pitted!

On the beach, the coaches opened a cooler full of beer and sodas. As the mosquitoes descended with the sun, I dashed to the truck for the can of repellant I'd brought, getting back to the beach just in time to turn around and leave with the others. I passed the can around, relenting on my earlier joke that sprays would be $5 each.

The last night was an excuse for a mixer with coaches and staff, a chance to see them with their hair dry and wearing nice clothes. The big screen TV showed highlights from our week, and we admired good surfing and laughed at wipeouts. The skies let loose with more torrential rain. I had my back turned, talking to Ru, when what sounded like a bomb exploded behind the pool. Lightning had struck very nearby, the flash and boom near simultaneous.
Rain on the pool
After drinks and appetizers, we guests were left alone for dinner. Then everyone stayed for another fun round of Cards Against Humanity. Miguel, Kim and Ted were leaving early in the morning, so we said our goodbyes, although I'd see Miguel on my flight from Houston to San Diego.

The leak from the toilet in our bungalow seemed to have stopped, but another leak sprang up in Jessica's room from the heavy showers, wetting the bottom of her duffle bag on the floor. I feel asleep to the sound of rain on the roof.
I kind of like the Spanish spelling of my name. And – surprise! – I'm shopping for a longboard. For training.

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