The Thrill

The tide was pretty high this morning, making the waves soft on the paddle in, but they'd jack up just after takeoff.

Ian waved as he stroked past Hennemans on his way to more-crowded Hairmos. For a happy while it was just me and four other guys, and I charged the main peak.

W-w-wipeout! I had one of those too, ass-over-teakettle.

Among lesser waves, I caught two that were a bit overhead and successfully made the fast and high turn to stay on through the steep bit - what a thrill! And I rode one of those waves all the way in, feeling the power in the pocket. Woo hoo!

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