The weather was unsettled, alternating between sun and rain, with some sleet thrown in. Waves were up to head high on the bigger sets but mushy. The crowds had me off the main peak, but I caught a couple waves. On the first I remembered to stay low, but I'm amending that to add not too low. In my overly-low stance I had my butt sticking out which threw my c.g. off and made for an overly-short ride. On the next, I didn't realize it was possible to pearl the Xanadu, but apparently that's what I did, when I started my pop-up late and found myself being projected over the front of my board, hands over my head and diving down to avoid it as the wave and surfboard came up from behind. Still, it was a fun wipeout. Maybe I'm strange but I enjoy ones like that, little danger, being spun about like a bit of flotsam by the power of the ocean. It makes me feel satisfyingly insignificant and alive.
"The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul." - Wyland
15 March 2008
Indicators, 15 March 2008
The weather was unsettled, alternating between sun and rain, with some sleet thrown in. Waves were up to head high on the bigger sets but mushy. The crowds had me off the main peak, but I caught a couple waves. On the first I remembered to stay low, but I'm amending that to add not too low. In my overly-low stance I had my butt sticking out which threw my c.g. off and made for an overly-short ride. On the next, I didn't realize it was possible to pearl the Xanadu, but apparently that's what I did, when I started my pop-up late and found myself being projected over the front of my board, hands over my head and diving down to avoid it as the wave and surfboard came up from behind. Still, it was a fun wipeout. Maybe I'm strange but I enjoy ones like that, little danger, being spun about like a bit of flotsam by the power of the ocean. It makes me feel satisfyingly insignificant and alive.
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