Functional Stance FTW

From the Surfline cam

The waves were big and meh this morning with lots of windswell messing things up, but what I learned at surf camp made all the difference in riding them. Popping up in the functional stance (see video) let me stay on my feet ahead of and atop roiling whitewater. I was so well balanced that I could adjust the board position in response to the turbulence and keep riding when I figured for sure I'd fall.

I did luck into the spot X to catch a green right, which soon closed out and then died. Jess and her friend other-Mike rode some too before we ended the short session. Still fun, thanks to my coaching at Surf Simply!